My TVS1900 Build - Lots of questions - Page 4 - TBSSOWNERS.com Forums - The #1 TrailblazerSS Dedicated Owners Forum

griffincox · May-07-12, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dep

If you are pulling t-case down by itself, there is just the one speed sensor plug and the air vent hose--and possibly un-clip fuel lines. I pulled it down with tranny. Did you pull front axles out of front diff yet?? It takes a hard smack with a brass drift to un-seat them from c-clip. Then they just pull out. You do not have to pull steering rack or the lines--just remove the 2 big bolts holding it into the frame and lower it down and oil pan with clear just fine!!! Just did it 2 nights ago.Do yourself a favor and put new inner and outer seals in that front diff while its on the floor. Also, re-pack the pass. side axle carrier or convert it to gear oil-. *I used a 3-4' extension when i did tranny bellhousing bolts and it made it pretty easy to do from the rear. The headers seemed to give me the biggests fits--took almost a whole day. Tight fit!!! If you need any tips--call or text me--done all this myself on my garage floor a month ago.218-966-3071

Thanks for all the tips Brian. I am open to pulling the transfer case by itself or with the transmission. Whichever is easier. I have a tranny jack so that should help. I have seen the PDF of the gm document for tranny removal. I suppose I will follow that. My concerns are mostly around the torque converter. I have never removed a transmission before. I know the access plug comes out. But what from there. You fit a wrench through it and undo the 3 bolts? *What keeps the flex plate from spinning. After your remove the bolts, then what? *It says something about a tool for retaining the converter? *Is it just a spline shaft that slides off? *Any newb tips are appreciated.*

When you say inner and outer seals, is that for the shafts? *

I plan to convert to gear oil on the passenger side. The driver is covered by the diff, correct?

And If I understand correctly with the conversion that JD linked below. You have a 3' foot hose of oil that just gravity feeds and needed?

I might want to try and reseal the diff housing as it seems to have a slow leak. I will know more once I have the front apart.*

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD_SS

To Brian's points above Griff, here you go:

http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65981

You should do this - I plan to!

dep · May-07-12, 03:02 PM

To loosen the converter bolts, remove the starter and use a long extension and go in from the front of the truck-- flywheel has to be in the perfect spot-- you can hold flywheel from spinning with front dampner bolt or I have a flywheel holder fixture from Gm u could use. Torque converter will just stay in tranny as u pull it down long as you don't tip it way foward. Once on the ground, then just pull verter straight out off a splined shaft. If your doing a new stall and need to shim between flex plate and converter mounting feet- that's where the fun is. I use a pen magnet through the inspection hole to hold washer in place while I put bolt in through starter hole. Or u can super glue them on before hand. Either way u pull tranny- with transfer case or without- its pretty easy with jack. I'd put t case on tranny on the floor for reassembly so you don't have to fight that. The inner and outer seals I referred to are in the drivers side front diff-- outer one is for the drivers side axle shaft and inner seal is for the shaft that goes through oil pan to passenger side carrier.

dep · May-07-12, 03:05 PM

Again-- if you need help-- u can call anytime. If it wasn't for the help of other members on here, I'd never figure half this out either!!

griffincox · May-17-12, 09:10 AM

Thanks for the help this past weekend Brian! *So far the whole front is apart. Still need to pull the tranny and rear suspension, but the oil pan, diff, etc is out. I'll call you today to set up a time to drop it off Ross.*

A few questions.*

What to do with the o2 sensors. Again the SW manual makes its sound like all 4 go in, which they don't. Just the fronts, correct? *What do I do with the back ones? *Cut or disconnect? I didn't look yet where they disconnect. I will get some new gaskets for the headers. The stainless works come with some nice looking bolts (I think grade 8). Should I use these, new oem, or existing oem? *As for the oil pan gasket, it looks like it was riveted on. *Just replace with a new oem? * The rear diff I will probably just use some gasket maker. Had good luck in the past. *Will fill with Dexron*LS Lubricant 88862624.*

What kind of oil does everyone like for a stock LS2 with Maggie? *Original owner user Motul, an I've been using Mobil1. 30k miles total.*

**JD_SS** · May-17-12, 09:18 AM

Turn off rear o2's and disconnect (my guess)

Get OEM gaskets for headers. Throw SW gaskets away

Use existing OEM manifold bolts or buy Stage 8 locking bolts (Stage 8's are nice to have but unecessary) - Do not use SW header bolts

New Oil pan gasket

New rear diff seal, don't use gasket maker

Mobil1 is fine man

**Rat Raceway** · May-17-12, 09:21 AM

You should get bungs welded in for the rear o2's. Just for the visual inspection. If they were to see them missing it would be a red flag to inspect the rest of the truck.

Just let me know on the pan. I have another I'm getting ready to start and JD's is almost done as well.

**JD_SS** · May-17-12, 09:22 AM

OH YEAH!! Great news Rossimo!!

I guess you're going to want some $ soon? hehe

**Rat Raceway** · May-17-12, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD_SS

OH YEAH!! Great news Rossimo!!

I guess you're going to want some $ soon? hehe

Money of your first born!

No worries, your dropping coin in a hurry... When your ready!

griffincox · May-17-12, 10:02 AM

Why does stainless works even include bolts? *Anyone with strainless works headers care to chime in about 02. Just spoke on the phone with em. They will be calling back to confirm. But I have 2 bungs on the collectors. No where else. Pretty sure it's missing two.*

**JD_SS** · May-17-12, 10:10 AM

Kooks includes bolts as well. I've heard they are garbage just like the gaskets they provide. Stick with OEM

griffincox · May-17-12, 10:44 AM

Just talked with stainless works. Different systems have em in different places. I will have 2 welded in after the cats. Keep them tuned in or tune em out?

**JD_SS** · May-17-12, 11:44 AM

tune them out.

**JD_SS** · May-18-12, 08:54 AM

any updates big baller?

griffincox · May-18-12, 01:02 PM

I'll put some pics and details up this weekend. Anyone else waiting on these new upper A-arms from DJM?

dep · May-18-12, 07:59 PM

Use new gm oil pan gasket and torque in the pattern and specs in service manual--Don't need to rivet it back on. I re-used my stock gm manifold bolts and used new gm gaskets for my Kook's headers--No leaks and all is good--I have rear o2 but they are for looks only as Joe tuned them out. You'd think when you spend $$$$ on headers-- You could use the bolts and gaskets they provide??? NOPE---JUNK THEM

griffincox · May-21-12, 07:56 PM

I pulled the tranny and transfer case saturday. Lots of work, but I wouldn't classify it as difficult. Just time consuming. Had some nice stuff show up from Baer on saturday too! I meant to call Greg today, but got caught up. Before I do can anyone think of or recommend anything else I need:

-Seals for front diff and carrier housing (is there 4 or 5 that I need?)
-Oil pan gasket
-Rear diff gasket
-3 qts. Dexron LS
-2 qts Autotrak II
-manifold gaskets

**JD_SS** · May-21-12, 09:19 PM

atta boy

Baer calipers =

Are the calipers setup with 3 pistons on both sides, so that they squeeze together? Rather than our stock setups where 2 pistons push against the rotor/backside of the caliper?

dep · May-22-12, 04:59 AM

There's inner and outer seals on diff and carrier housing-- so that's 4- then the pinion seal on front diff-- where front driveshaft goes-- I believe that Gm has a updated seal and or dust seal for that-if your gonna service that carrier-- you need the red sealant from Gm fit the case halfs-I used gasket maker and now mines dripping!! Good thing it's not the diff!! Carrier comes out in 15 minutes. Awesome brakes btw!!!

griffincox · May-22-12, 06:22 AM

The stock calipers are floating, so as the pistons on one side push the whole caliper slides to provide even force on both sides of the rotor. The Baer's are 6 piston, 3 per side, and are fixed and basically sit center of the rotor and squeeze evenly from both sides (no floating).

Is there any seal on the oil pan side of the front diff? And for the pinion seal,
Are you saying you split the case to put in a new pinion seal? And that when you do you must use GM red sealant for the diff case halves?

Thanks guys!

**JD_SS** · May-22-12, 12:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by griffincox

The stock calipers are floating, so as the pistons on one side push the whole caliper slides to provide even force on both sides of the rotor. The Baer's are 6 piston, 3 per side, and are fixed and basically sit center of the rotor and squeeze evenly from both sides (no floating).

Awesome. That's what I thought! Floating was the word I was looking for. Way cool... I bet stopping power is going to be unreal with those things!