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Old Mar-02-12, 05:34 PM   #61
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I highly doubt it would even run at 7.7.
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Old Mar-02-12, 06:01 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by DoWork View Post
I highly doubt it would even run at 7.7.
No kidding, probably choke itself out. Plus the plugs would show a super rich condition.

Matt, I havent had a single issue with my LC1 mounted right in front of my pass side NBO2 (stock manifolds) and use the serial output so I dont have to mess with ground offsets. Good point though, Jared check the ground offset and make sure the WB controller is calibrated correctly. If its reading 7.7, somethings off there.
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Old Mar-03-12, 02:30 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by jpracing01 View Post
Agreed, when I first installed my lc1.. Had all kinds of problems with it esp the analog output. It ended up being a grounding issue. My guess is you are seeing an offset issue in your grounding.

How do u have it grounded and where at?

Hook up the lc1 to your computer through serial port and see the readings.
Will do on Monday. At idle, it reads about 14.5, if that's any indicator of anything.
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Old Mar-04-12, 01:36 PM   #64
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Which Wideband are you running? Sorry if you Said all ready...
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Old Mar-05-12, 10:29 AM   #65
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AFR's are fine.... It might be an offset on the wideband, but I've checked it with my portable one and we are on the money/a little on the rich side....
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Old Mar-05-12, 11:40 AM   #66
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Since you said it happened after headers take a look at the rear lift point on the driverside (on the block) when I installed my 1 7/8" I had to cut some of it off so it wouldnt hit the last primary. worth a shot. oh by the way you will have to feel for it, I think it's around 2-3 inches after the bend.
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Old Mar-05-12, 01:06 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WILLIAMJRDN View Post
Since you said it happened after headers take a look at the rear lift point on the driverside (on the block) when I installed my 1 7/8" I had to cut some of it off so it wouldnt hit the last primary. worth a shot. oh by the way you will have to feel for it, I think it's around 2-3 inches after the bend.
Good info, i will check it out
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Old Mar-08-12, 07:28 PM   #68
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Update: I seemed to have found an issue. One of the wires was sliding down some on the stalk of the coil. I pushed it back up and have since only seen up to 2.0 degrees of KR. Something is still amiss, but I am going to recheck all the wires inside and out and somehow glue them to the damned coils soon. Also, I have found the plugs.

Here are the plugs. Anyone see anything amiss? The ones that are lined up are 1, 2, 4, 6, 7, and 8. The ones not lined up are sadly one's I did not have in order.



The rest are close ups in no order besides that I remember which went where.




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Old Mar-08-12, 07:33 PM   #69
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when i pop the wires on the coils, i takea 90* pick and slide it between the wire, and coil body... to escape the air from the socket.

do this. it will completely get rid of that problem.
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Old Mar-08-12, 07:36 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWO-TONS-OF-FUN View Post
when i pop the wires on the coils, i takea 90* pick and slide it between the wire, and coil body... to escape the air from the socket.

do this. it will completely get rid of that problem.
Will do, thank you! I take this place for granted at times. My pops taught me a lot, but mostly about tractors and lawn mowers (lived in BFE.)
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Old Mar-23-12, 05:30 AM   #71
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Wires are staying up, and it's back... New info. I resoldered one of the MAF wires (after unplugging it, to avoid heat damage) and the truck wouldn't start after I put everything back together. I unplugged the MAF to make sure that was the issue and sure enough, started right up. I plugged it back in, and the starter would just spin it. So then I fiddled around with the wires going into the harness and didn't find anything loose, but viola, truck has now been running for two days. ALSO, when I'm in 1st or 2nd, a full throttle push HAS NO KNOCK if there is no downshift. This lead me to believe that there is a wire losing contact somewhere in the engine bay upon the motor torquing over upon a sudden high rev from slow. Well, I took it to a private track and got it to 110 shifting manually so no downshifts and right around 110, while in 3rd, it came back. Any thoughts?

Also, if I'm still pushing boost and fuel into the motor and it pulls timing on spark from 17* to 7* IF IT IS SOMETHING BESIDES A LEGIT KNOCK IN THE MOTOR, wouldn't that cause a real knock at that point because the fuel and air will burn beyond the 0* mark on the stroke?

Last edited by Bullnettles; Mar-23-12 at 06:55 AM. Reason: Added a theory
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Old Mar-23-12, 12:57 PM   #72
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AND now it's doing it in 2nd while the shifter is in second. On top of that, the damn thing was surging while driving normally. Did it about 3 times. It's never done that before. I'm gonna shoot it and get a fucking Civic.
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Old Mar-23-12, 01:23 PM   #73
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couple of ideas... just throwing them out there...

Re-wire everything related to the MAF

Get a new MAF, used MAF or burrow someone's working MAF (to rule that out as a possibility).

Reload tune

This sounds wiring/computer/tune related...
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Old Mar-23-12, 01:27 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullnettles View Post
So then I fiddled around with the wires going into the harness and didn't find anything loose, but viola, truck has now been running for two days.
It has to be something in your MAF wiring...

They will not heal on there own.

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Old Mar-23-12, 01:32 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD_SS View Post
couple of ideas... just throwing them out there...

Re-wire everything related to the MAF

Get a new MAF, used MAF or burrow someone's working MAF (to rule that out as a possibility).

Reload tune

This sounds wiring/computer/tune related...
Rewiring it this weekend if I can. New MAF is in there, did that about a month ago, didn't help at all. Will be reloading the tune this weekend, just to make sure.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rat Raceway View Post
It has to be something in your MAF wiring...

They will not heal on there own.

LOL. Besides the resoldering of one wire, I didn't do anything but look to see where it went and pushed the harness back in a little. Yeah, sadly cars are not organic and don't just heal whatever, then have a cool scar.
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Old Mar-24-12, 09:31 AM   #76
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Truck died while rolling through a parking lot. Won't restart. Going to Luis's and I'm probably getting my daily driver today. Roadside assistance is paying for 120 of the cost of the tow. Fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, hell, whatever it is, it's fuggin dead. Turns over, and over and over, nada.
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Old Mar-24-12, 10:49 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Bullnettles View Post
Truck died while rolling through a parking lot. Won't restart. Going to Luis's and I'm probably getting my daily driver today. Roadside assistance is paying for 120 of the cost of the tow. Fuel pump, crankshaft position sensor, hell, whatever it is, it's fuggin dead. Turns over, and over and over, nada.
Hope it turns out to be something small. DD is always a good idea when playing with hot rods.
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Old Mar-24-12, 04:16 PM   #78
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IT WAS THE GROUND WIRE OF THE MAF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Luis has the truck right now and we did multiple full boost passes and it's golden. I'm dumbfounded. Thank you everyone who helped get this POS ground wire found. I love this forum. D/D will be coming very soon. Then the cam and alky go in. I can finally stop stressing over this damn thing... If anyone is curious, if you lose your ground on the MAF, it cuts the spark and sends crazy data to your comp, making it "knock" when it's actually just pushing the gas out the exhaust and no firing is going on. I can't believe it was one damn wire.
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Old Mar-25-12, 07:33 AM   #79
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Glad you got it fixed! If your an 06, just get rid of the MAF, thats what I did, one less thing to go wrong, one less thing to tune and or give bad data.
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Old Mar-25-12, 09:53 AM   #80
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Glad you got it fixed! If your an 06, just get rid of the MAF, thats what I did, one less thing to go wrong, one less thing to tune and or give bad data.
I disagree. I would still run it hybrid for his setup.
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