My TVS1900 Build - Lots of questions - Page 2 - TBSSOWNERS.com Forums - The #1 TrailblazerSS Dedicated Owners Forum

griffincox · Mar-09-12, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rat Raceway

Not sure on a 1900 my guess is around 7-8psi.

Anyone have any input on a 2.9" on tvs1900 at altitude? Is 7-8psi safe on a stock bottom end?

**Left Coast '32** · Mar-09-12, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by griffincox

Anyone have any input on a 2.9" on tvs1900 at altitude? Is 7-8psi safe on a stock bottom end?

We can set you up for 7-8 psi at that altitude no problem. I have several customers at altitude so we can get the boost dialed in no problem.

griffincox · Mar-13-12, 10:21 AM

I have made a little progress on how I want to do things. Please critique as I know much less than most of you guys. I am basically going to do the build in two phases.*

Phase one:
- Modified AWD oil pan with remote filter
- rod bolts???
- LC32 cross member
- Stainless works long tubes
- plug wires
- NGK plugs
- RPM level 6 and yank sc2800
- full suspension front and rear
- alignment
- tuning

Phase two:
- TVS1900 with 2.9" rip pulley, ls2 car TB and hd tensioner
- intake???
- tuning*

I would like some feedback on whether or not to do rod bolts. The engine has 30k miles. *Not a lot of abuse. *Never been lacking oil to my knowledge. *ARP recommends rod work after install while katech *does not. I have never worked on a rotating assembly which makes me nervous. But I have a torque wrench and am very conscientious and like to do things right. I want the engine to last quite a while. Long enough to where I am not bitter when it breaks and I have to build a new one. I dont know how long that is haha. But at least a few years and many tens of thousands of miles.*

As for the intake. I know a fwi is ideal but I am still concerned with crap getting in it. Any compromise between full fwi and the stock maggie?

Anything else? *Thanks everyone!

**Rat Raceway** · Mar-13-12, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by griffincox

I have made a little progress on how I want to do things. Please critique as I know much less than most of you guys. I am basically going to do the build in two phases.*

Phase one:
- Modified AWD oil pan with remote filter
- rod bolts???
- LC32 cross member
- Stainless works long tubes
- plug wires
- NGK plugs
- RPM level 6 and yank sc2800
- full suspension front and rear
- alignment
- tuning

Phase two:
- TVS1900 with 2.9" rip pulley, ls2 car TB and hd tensioner
- intake???
- tuning*

I would like some feedback on whether or not to do rod bolts. The engine has 30k miles. *Not a lot of abuse. *Never been lacking oil to my knowledge. *ARP recommends rod work after install while katech *does not. I have never worked on a rotating assembly which makes me nervous. But I have a torque wrench and am very conscientious and like to do things right. I want the engine to last quite a while. Long enough to where I am not bitter when it breaks and I have to build a new one. I dont know how long that is haha. But at least a few years and many tens of thousands of miles.*

As for the intake. I know a fwi is ideal but I am still concerned with crap getting in it. Any compromise between full fwi and the stock maggie?

Anything else? *Thanks everyone!

IMO your headed down the right path!

I would hold off on the rod bolts! Just keep the money for when you forge your motor.

Mild boost with the other mods listed will get you low 13's up on the hill!

YES, EVERYONE I SAID 13's!!!!!!!

You will stomp 90% of the street cars you find just cursing around town.

griffincox · Mar-13-12, 07:11 PM

Thanks Ross! Bump for some more input.

gn2beatu · Mar-13-12, 10:52 PM

Id go with the 3200 converter. You can skip the TB, its only 2mm bigger and wont make that big of a differance. Heck port your stock one. As for the intake, custom make an airbox with some aluminum, put the filter in the box (sealed from engine compartment air), then drill a 4" hole where you would put a FWI. Get some ducting from the 4" hole and run it to the foglamp, then you have a homemade ram-air 4" CAI that wont suck water in. Make sure to not block the three 1" holes in the fender, that way you can suck air through them if your truck ever ends up submerging the foglight area.

dep · Mar-19-12, 05:02 AM

I'd go with the 3200 converter too--I had a sc3000 and now my 4l80 stall is a loose 3000 and it comes out of the hole like animal. Wife daily drives it with no problem-- I would not be afriad of that intake--I take mine through car wash--etc-- that sock is from a jet ski!!! Low intake air temps are the key to timing and power!!! I'm gonna be doing a modded oil pan shortly(oil pressure dropping huge) and i'm not gonna do rod bolts.If its not broke--don't fucx with it.

**JD_SS** · Apr-07-12, 10:57 PM

Well? Let's get moving Griffin!!

griffincox · Apr-08-12, 09:09 AM

Getting there. I basically just need to get the crossmember from Joe and get moving on the 1st phase. Here is some goodies to hold you over though.

**JD_SS** · Apr-08-12, 09:11 AM

Now we're talking! Did you go with stainless works?

griffincox · Apr-08-12, 09:13 AM

Indeed. Stainless Works with catted mid pipes into that borla muffler which has nice internal construction. Should sound great.

**Rat Raceway** · Apr-08-12, 09:17 AM

Very cool, coming along nicely.

ForceFed · Apr-08-12, 09:24 AM

YOur headers look different than mine at the collector. Mine are smooth where yours get smaller and them flare back up. What size is the outlet of the header, I am assuming 3''?

griffincox · Apr-30-12, 07:46 AM

Well. It has begun. I drained all the fluids last night. Everything looked clean coming out, so that's a good start. Going to just work slowly but surely to get everything off. Should have the pan off soon Ross, sorry for the delay. Any tips on where to start when removing the oil pan, transmission, converter, manifolds, cross member etc? *I will pull apart the front suspension and brakes first to take stress off.*

Kyle, I will take some measurements when I get the headers back from coating.*

Any tips are appreciated. All I am waiting on is A-arms and rear sway from Tony, and a panhard from LC32 after this next production run.*

griffincox · Apr-30-12, 07:56 AM

Sorry the pic is flipped. I'll fix it when im back to my comp.

**Rat Raceway** · Apr-30-12, 07:59 AM

Its Spider truck! I'm seeing your picture upside down!

On Jack stands I would say transfercase, then Trans.... DRAIN EVERYTHING YOU CAN!

Just let me know when your ready for the pan.

**JD_SS** · Apr-30-12, 08:06 AM

Congrats Giffin! Your picture is upside down though big daddy. Our necks will be killing us if you keep this up.

Don't forget heat socks for those wires!!

griffincox · Apr-30-12, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rat Raceway

Its Spider truck! I'm seeing your picture upside down!

On Jack stands I would say transfercase, then Trans.... DRAIN EVERYTHING YOU CAN!

Just let me know when your ready for the pan.

It's right side up. The tires are just sticky.

I drained everything but the transmission. Should I drain that too? *

Transmission before anything up front or doesn't matter?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JD_SS

Congrats Giffin! *Your picture is upside down though big daddy. *Our necks will be killing us if you keep this up.

Don't forget heat socks for those wires!!

It's not my fault. It's Dropbox. I am going to start using something else. Pain in my ass.*

I don't think I'm going to put socks on though. From what I read with the nice PCM for less wires + 1 3/4" stainless works coated there should be no heat issues.*

**JD_SS** · Apr-30-12, 08:53 AM

Sounds good! You can always add socks later if you notice any melting! It was the 1 7/8" headers that NEED socks! Forgot about that!

griffincox · Apr-30-12, 08:55 AM

Thanks for looking out my man! I'll keep everyone updated.