Project Cheap SStreet - 10's for around $2000

[TWO-TONS-OF-FUN]

care to expand on what you ran into with the aeromotive...

that is on my next round of "to do's" in a month or so.

[devus1]

Originally Posted by TBSSX

A nice single pump should be able to hang pretty well but depends on how high we are talking on boost level. Walbro 255 on 4 cyl at 30psi boost was fine. a 400 should be ok I would think for the 8.

I was referring to 20+ lbs

Originally Posted by TWO-TONS-OF-FUN

care to expand on what you ran into with the aeromotive...

that is on my next round of "to do's" in a month or so.

Greg check out Lonnies Fuel System...Alvin noticed a rash of Aeromotive pumps failing. We choose the RX double pump set up for mine..

[Bullnettles]

Originally Posted by gn2beatu

@ Bullnettles - jeesh, Im only at like 90 days in the build and almost 4 weeks of that was in FL all the while not building anything....... Some builds last years! ;-)

Eh, it was a double entendre. Both we'll never see times because they'll never post, or you'll never run it, because you keep building. Either way, it's entertaining as hell to see how bent out of shape people get. I'm perplexed on a few parts, but I'm gonna kick my feet up and wait for the first video. Still on course to be at Nats?

[carlrx7]

Originally Posted by TWO-TONS-OF-FUN

care to expand on what you ran into with the aeromotive...

that is on my next round of "to do's" in a month or so.

This was in a corvette that has twin tanks. Some people had issues with vapor locking. Mostly install error, or not using a PSC

if you use an eliminator pump, make sure to use the new smaller black Pump Speed controller. min volts 8.5 and full volts at max boost rpm or 4000, whichever comes first.

-Carl

[TBSSX]

Originally Posted by devus1

I was referring to 20+ lbs



Greg check out Lonnies Fuel System...Alvin noticed a rash of Aeromotive pumps failing. We choose the RX double pump set up for mine..

20+ psi will likely be safer to run a dual pump.

[lt1z]

20+ psi? Are we still talking about a stock LS2 bottom end with re used TTY bolts?

[snowvette]

Originally Posted by mbx5

Lords of light! Ariel, Oookla - RIDE! AwwwwHEEEE

^That was one of my favorites. Impressive reference.

[devus1]

Originally Posted by lt1z

20+ psi? Are we still talking about a stock LS2 bottom end with re used TTY bolts?

You know me better than that...arp 234-4314 a step above there L 19

[lt1z]

Originally Posted by devus1

You know me better than that...arp 234-4314 a step above there L 19

Thats why I asked considering the thread this was in..

[mitch kramer baby!]

i say fuck it and go for a 40 psi gtech run and let us know what 0-kabooom is.

[mbx5]

Originally Posted by snowvette

^That was one of my favorites. Impressive reference.

[gn2beatu]

Thats a great price on the 1518 for $188.00!! I was considering the Lunati springs for $128 as they have the same specs for pressure. But the .650 lift on the PAC is a big plus. Goona be doing the LS9 cam about 60-90 days from now, and that would leave room for higher ratio rockers down the road if I wanted to.

That eliminator pump is impressive for a single pump, 950lbs fuel @ 13.5v = 600lph. But the $473 the eliminator costs, just doesnt make sense to buy. For those that dont mind two pumps, it would make more sense to run twin 400 walbros and have more fuel. You can get the 400lph for $150 with the install kit. Most people dont know a single 400lph pump can support 800-850hp. I talked to Alvin about this before I bought mine, so thats why I ended up with what I did. Im @ 70% DC now with the 130lb/hr injectors, using the 400lph with the stock fuel lines & pressures, with no loss of fuel pressure.

Greg, twin 400lph at 13.5v at 4bar will flow ~ 700lph, that would save ya $173!! Im not a fan of running twin pumps though, so if the 400 or 450lph isnt enough, then I say go for the eliminator. Ive seen too many engines burn up cause one pump failed and they went lean.

Wonder if anyone makes a pressure switch a guy could run at the fuel rail tap, that you could use as an ignition cut if pressure fell off? It would just be a simple relay to hook up.

Fixed my plug wires, and still have popping. Its fine until the boost hits above 12psi and the wastegate opens. Going to do plugs in a little bit, hoping that fixes it. Just can seem to figure out why it does it when the wastegate opens. Boost is solid, no fluctuations, wastegates working fine, kinda stumped here. No reason why I can think of, other than springs, but it didnt do this before as its something recent.

[carlrx7]

Originally Posted by gn2beatu

Wonder if anyone makes a pressure switch a guy could run at the fuel rail tap, that you could use as an ignition cut if pressure fell off? It would just be a simple relay to hook up.

I dont think it would react fast enough to save a lean condition.

some guys use an LED to signal when the second pump comes on. No light, get off the gas. if primary pump ever dies, you could have quick disconnects and swap which pump runs all the time to make it home.

-Carl

[devus1]

there no way i would not run 2 pumps on e85 at 15 + lbs of boost...but what do I know. I still dont see how if this thing makes the power level hes saying it doesnt lift the head. I bought the best possible head stud they make without going to 1/2 inch...summit or jegs 2 of the biggest parts suppliers dont even stock them and I worried about lifting the head with a 4 bolt block..

[Pete466]

Originally Posted by gn2beatu

Fixed my plug wires, and still have popping. Its fine until the boost hits above 12psi and the wastegate opens. Going to do plugs in a little bit, hoping that fixes it. Just can seem to figure out why it does it when the wastegate opens. Boost is solid, no fluctuations, wastegates working fine, kinda stumped here. No reason why I can think of, other than springs, but it didnt do this before as its something recent.

Change your valve springs ASAP!! and shim them to .060" away from coil bind and your good to go, problems gone.

Pete

[Cane Corso]

I have triple this budget in tattoos'

[gn2beatu]

Will the .650 PAC be enough spring to run 20psi down the road? Or do you have to shim em? Wasnt thinking I had to shim them for that. Your the first to mention shimming the aftermarket springs.

[lt1z]

Originally Posted by gn2beatu

Will the .650 PAC be enough spring to run 20psi down the road? Or do you have to shim em? Wasnt thinking I had to shim them for that. Your the first to mention shimming the aftermarket springs.

I'd go with some nice duals with Ti retainers for that kind of boost. as well as upgrading the exhaust valve in those 243s. Of course if you don't build the bottom it will just destroy the heads when it comes apart so that may be throwing good money after bad. I would just stay at 14 psi and go with duals and see what it gets you.

I PM'd you a link to a good set of springs at a reasonable price.

[Pete466]

Originally Posted by gn2beatu

Will the .650 PAC be enough spring to run 20psi down the road? Or do you have to shim em? Wasnt thinking I had to shim them for that. Your the first to mention shimming the aftermarket springs.

By shimming them to correct height (depending your cam lift), will net you most seat pressure available from your springs. Also you should allways shim them to get most out of them(regarding performance and endurance), usually .050" away from bind.

Pete

[gn2beatu]

Thanks Pete. When measuring for coil bind with feeler gauges at full lift, do you just measure one coil, or should there be .050 between every coil in the spring. Will be using the stock cam now, and the LS9 down the road. So no big lift. Shimming the 1518's should be plenty then, as they are 130lbs stock, and the springs Matt is talking about are 160. I could get to 160 with shims on the 1518's easy enough looking at the specs. Or am I missing something? The extra $100 isnt in my budget unfortunatly. Heck the extra $60 for the 1518's over the Lunati which have the same rate open are killing me. But I can see how the .650 lift could benefit me down the road. I already ordered the 1518's anyways, so the other ones Matt talked about arent an option anyways now.

After I put the new plugs in and ran it, on cold start up I could hear some lifter noise. Went under the engine to make sure it wasnt bottom end, and it wasnt. It went away almost completely after warm though, so I guess it could be piston slap. But it never had that before. Im thinking maybe when it popped it could have bent a pushrod or something too. Will be checking that when I throw the springs in. Compression is good on all cylinders at 190-196psi across the board. So that pretty much leaves valve noise, altho it wouldnt surprise me if its piston slap. Will know hopefully this weekend if its pushrod or piston, thats if the springs make it to me by Friday. I also pulled the injectors off one at a time while a neighbor loaded the engine. The noise is in the rear cylinder on drivers side. Pulling the injector makes the noise pretty much go away.